On Thursday I was chatting to the only other female staff member, a very lovely young Indian woman, Dinaar, about how I wanted to buy more local clothing but wasn't sure of the best places to go. She suggested she take me into Kathmandu proper after school to show me her favourite clothes shop. I hadn't been into the city centre yet and so was thrilled at the idea. As soon as school finished we dashed off and caught the microcab (Toyota Hilux seems to be the vehicle of choice here) and off we went. She was right about the shop - I could've bought every outfit there! In the end I settled for a blue tunic with fawn embroidery and fawn trousers to match. I was measured so it could be tailored to fit me and she said she'll pick it up on her way to the school tomorrow. They wanted to show me Durbah Square so off we went down the little side streets and on the way I saw another shop with a bargain rail of tunics for just 3 pounds each, so I got one in red with gold and green trim. I have actually tried wearing jeans but they didn't even get as far as the front door before I went back and changed - local dress is so much more comfortable and feels so good on.
The Square was breathtaking. I do have photos and will hopefully be uploading them soon but for now will have to just describe. Temples, colour, incense, carvings so intricate and perfect they look machine made... All over Kathmandu I see these - buildings in states of disrepair, poverty, and then these beautiful carvings. Incongruous but somehow fitting. Anyhow, we spent a good hour at the square and then I had to get back so they showed me where to wait for the microcab back. Only then did I realise how spoiled we were on the journey in. Then, we had a seat and we were comfortable. Going back was standing room only and every time I thought it was full to capacity it would stop and more people would cram in. I tried doing a head count and got to 35 but couldn't see how many more were at the very front. I was at the side towards the back and couldn't stand upright so did the half hour journey bent like a sweaty banana. Home was a welcome sight!
Yesterday being the first day of the weekend I decided to go back into the city to explore properly. All would have been well except I made the mistake of asking the lady next to me, who had limited English, where I should get off and she told me the wrong stop. I should have trusted instinct. Instead I walked, and walked, and walked and eventually got to Durbah Square but more by luck than judgement. On the way I actually passed a KFC (!!!) and, if it hadn't been so early and if they had been serving, I would have been seen scuttling off down the nearest alley, clutching my bargain bucket and giggling happily to myself. As it was I had to make to with looking at the pictures. The Square was more crowded, being the weekend, and every time I stopped moving I had someone or other wanting to be my guide, sell me a mandala etc. In the end I left. It was the day the Living God was to be displayed (more about that later) and I had no desire to look at a little girl who will spend the rest of her time until puberty locked away behind screens. I had always thought that the beginning of mensturation was the sign of her mortality and so her return to 'normal' life but I have been told that if she shows blood at all, eg if she falls and cuts herself, then that will have the same impact. Reminded me of the film 'The Man who would be King'.
From there I followed my feet and just walked. I had planned to go to Thamel but wasn't following a map and was surprised and delighted when I found myself there. I treated myself to a 2 course lunch with hot chocolate (2 pounds) and then set off to find the infamous Rum Doodles. Apparently the location has changed but from the moment you walk in every inch of all space is covered by cardboard cut out feet, each with anecdotes and the names of people who have been there. The place covers three floors with a roof terrace too so that's a lot of feet! The waiter told me that when they moved they brought all the feet from the last location with them so I know that's at least 30 years of feet. I looked for my friend's but it was a bit of a needle/haystack business.
I returned to my bargain rail shop and bought 2 more tunics so now I'm set up for school. Washing is done in a tub on the roof and I try to do mine every morning before I leave but it's still nice to have changes of clothing. Oh yes, another rooftop custom - every morning the first thing every woman of the house does is to go up on the roof and ring a bell, then light incense and sometimes light butter lamps for the gods. Its a way of giving praise for the new day.
The rains are so late this year! From the school roof I can see the rice plants ready to be planted out but the paddy fields, which should be pools of water by now, are cracked and parched. Poor farmers! Every evening huge black clouds gather over the mountains but, apart from a couple of occasions, nothing comes of it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumari_(children)
The Square was breathtaking. I do have photos and will hopefully be uploading them soon but for now will have to just describe. Temples, colour, incense, carvings so intricate and perfect they look machine made... All over Kathmandu I see these - buildings in states of disrepair, poverty, and then these beautiful carvings. Incongruous but somehow fitting. Anyhow, we spent a good hour at the square and then I had to get back so they showed me where to wait for the microcab back. Only then did I realise how spoiled we were on the journey in. Then, we had a seat and we were comfortable. Going back was standing room only and every time I thought it was full to capacity it would stop and more people would cram in. I tried doing a head count and got to 35 but couldn't see how many more were at the very front. I was at the side towards the back and couldn't stand upright so did the half hour journey bent like a sweaty banana. Home was a welcome sight!
Yesterday being the first day of the weekend I decided to go back into the city to explore properly. All would have been well except I made the mistake of asking the lady next to me, who had limited English, where I should get off and she told me the wrong stop. I should have trusted instinct. Instead I walked, and walked, and walked and eventually got to Durbah Square but more by luck than judgement. On the way I actually passed a KFC (!!!) and, if it hadn't been so early and if they had been serving, I would have been seen scuttling off down the nearest alley, clutching my bargain bucket and giggling happily to myself. As it was I had to make to with looking at the pictures. The Square was more crowded, being the weekend, and every time I stopped moving I had someone or other wanting to be my guide, sell me a mandala etc. In the end I left. It was the day the Living God was to be displayed (more about that later) and I had no desire to look at a little girl who will spend the rest of her time until puberty locked away behind screens. I had always thought that the beginning of mensturation was the sign of her mortality and so her return to 'normal' life but I have been told that if she shows blood at all, eg if she falls and cuts herself, then that will have the same impact. Reminded me of the film 'The Man who would be King'.
From there I followed my feet and just walked. I had planned to go to Thamel but wasn't following a map and was surprised and delighted when I found myself there. I treated myself to a 2 course lunch with hot chocolate (2 pounds) and then set off to find the infamous Rum Doodles. Apparently the location has changed but from the moment you walk in every inch of all space is covered by cardboard cut out feet, each with anecdotes and the names of people who have been there. The place covers three floors with a roof terrace too so that's a lot of feet! The waiter told me that when they moved they brought all the feet from the last location with them so I know that's at least 30 years of feet. I looked for my friend's but it was a bit of a needle/haystack business.
I returned to my bargain rail shop and bought 2 more tunics so now I'm set up for school. Washing is done in a tub on the roof and I try to do mine every morning before I leave but it's still nice to have changes of clothing. Oh yes, another rooftop custom - every morning the first thing every woman of the house does is to go up on the roof and ring a bell, then light incense and sometimes light butter lamps for the gods. Its a way of giving praise for the new day.
The rains are so late this year! From the school roof I can see the rice plants ready to be planted out but the paddy fields, which should be pools of water by now, are cracked and parched. Poor farmers! Every evening huge black clouds gather over the mountains but, apart from a couple of occasions, nothing comes of it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kumari_(children)
Caroline it all sounds so interesting. You are so brave and adventurous experiencing all this. I think maybe we have had all Nepal's rain over here since you've been gone. I will get Andy to read this cos I know he will probably recognise a lot of what you've mentioned x
ReplyDeleteAnd i dooo recognize in a general sense just what it's like there, more particularly Kathmandu itself. I came after riots thank god, so it sounds like it's somewhat settled (for the moment)x
ReplyDeleteWow! Sounds amazing - and you are obviously loving every moment!
ReplyDeleteYour accounts are beautifully written too - you should take up teaching English somewhere!! ;-) xx